A Little History About Jadeite Glassware

Jadeite glassware is an opaque, pale green glass that was first produced in the United States in the early 20th century. Its name comes from its resemblance to jade, a stone long prized in Asian art and culture. The most well-known producer was Anchor Hocking, which introduced its “Fire-King” line in the 1940s, though other companies like McKee Glass Company and Jeannette Glass Company also made similar wares. Jadeite emerged during the Great Depression, when durable, affordable household goods were in high demand. Its sturdy construction and cheerful color made it both practical and uplifting in a time of economic hardship.

The popularity of jadeite surged in the mid-20th century, especially in the 1940s and 1950s. It was often given away as promotional items in grocery stores or packaged with products like flour, oatmeal, or coffee, making it accessible to a wide range of households. Restaurants and diners also used jadeite for its durability and clean, appealing look. Over time, it became associated with vintage Americana and mid-century kitchen aesthetics. In the late 20th and early 21st centuries, nostalgia and a renewed interest in retro design sparked a revival, bringing jadeite back into the spotlight among collectors and home decorators.

Today, jadeite glassware is highly collectible, with values varying widely depending on rarity, condition, and manufacturer. Early pieces from McKee or rare Fire-King patterns can command high prices, especially if they are in excellent condition with minimal wear. Collectors often seek out specific items like mixing bowls, measuring cups, and restaurant ware, as well as unique or limited-production designs. Reproductions are also common, which makes authentication an important aspect of collecting. Beyond monetary value, many enthusiasts appreciate jadeite for its timeless aesthetic and the sense of history it brings to everyday objects. And I think it is just as beautiful in miniature as in full size!

 

 

 After testing dozens of paint shades,  I was lucky enough to find a color that exactly matched the color of my vintage pieces.  If you are a collector, you know that Jadeite comes in a variety of subtle variations of green, and if you find a color that you prefer to the one I used, feel free to use it.  Please test it on a piece first, remembering that the color will change as it dries... usually darkening by 2-3 shades, and will then look different again after being varnished.
I will give you basic instructions and tips for application here.  As most of the pieces are finished in the same way I do not feel individual instructions are needed for each piece.  I will however provide instructions for anything that needs "special" attention.
Some basic tips and tricks!  1.  Use a soft fine brush.  A rounded flat shader is a good choice.
2.  Rinse your brush often.
3. Be sure to shake your paint well.
4.  Use scotch double sided tape to secure each piece on the end of a wooden popsicle stick.  The bottom does not need to be painted, but the stick will allow you to move, handle, and rotate the piece in every way needed to paint it without getting your fingers in the way. 5. The pieces are very highly detailed.  You do NOT want to apply the paint so heavily that you flood out and fill in all of the details.  Do a very thin coat first, and allow it to dry, then follow up with a second thin coat.   If necessary, thin your paint with a SMALL amount of water or medium.  This will insure that you get full coverage, but still retain the details.
6.  Most of the salt and pepper sets had silver lids.  Use a metallic paint of your choice to paint these.
7.  When the paint is completely dry, apply a thin, even coat of water base brush on varnish.  The finish should be shiny, but not obnoxiously so.  I have found that satin actually has a nice shine depending on the brand. Never use a high gloss finish. 
NOTE:  If your piece is one that has a water slide decal, so not apply your varnish until after you have affixed the decal. 
 
Special Techniques
Some models include labels and decals.  The first example is the set of canisters, which feature authentic labels for each. The labels for the canister set are paper, so it is ok to varnish the pieces before applying the labels.
For the canister set, you have five different labels.  All are authentic.  Choose the four you want to use.  Cut each paper label out carefully with small sharp scissors.
Apply glue to the flat diagonal area on the front of the canister using a toothpick.

Put the label into position.
If desired, after glue is completely dry, you can apply a very thin coat of varnish.
  Water Slide Decals
Additionally, many of the salt and pepper sets include water slide decals which are authentic reproductions of the actual text used on each style. Here are instructions on how to apply the water decals.
Using small sharp scissors cut out each label design, cutting closely to the outline of the design.  You will be cutting thru two layers, the clear top layer, and the white cardstock layer.
Get a small dish of warm water.  Not hot, not cold... warm.  Place only ONE of the decals into the water.  Because they are so small, they will need only a couple of seconds in the water before they should be removed.  Gently use a pair of fine tweezers.
Hold the decal gently in the tweezers, and bring it over to your resin piece. 
Place it carefully on the piece.  Anchor one edge of the decal lightly with your thumbnail and use the tweezers  to carefully reach under and grab the white cardstock,  Holding the clear layer in place, gently pull the cardstock out from under the clear layer, allowing it to fall onto the surface.
It's not going to land in the perfect position.  It never does.  Use a tiny needle to gently move it around on the surface until it is in place.  The water under the decal will help it move easily. 
Once the design is positioned properly, I use a very soft flat brush and gently pat the decal into place, absorbing any excess water.  You can also use a piece of soft tissue or a q tip to gently press the decal down and pick up the excess moisture. As it dries, the decal will glue itself to the surface.  Don't scrub it with the brush or tissue, you don't want to damage the printed design.
When the piece is completely dry, apply  a light coat of your varnish over the decal, paying attention to make sure to cover all of the cut edges of the decal to secure them into place.
Fiddly? Yes!  Adorable?  Absolutely!!!!


I'll show you a few photos of painted pieces just for inspiration!
 

I hope you will enjoy making these wonderful little pieces.  If you have any questions, drop me an email!